In January 1996, a dramatic fire left the fabled Teatro de La Fenice at Campo San Fantin, the city's main venue for performing arts, a blackened shell and a smoldering ruin. Opera lovers around the world, including Luciano Pavarotti, mourned its loss. The Italian government has pledged $12.5 million for its reconstruction, but restoration efforts have proceeded at the proverbial snail's pace. Who can predict when it will be done? (Some speculate an opening in late 2003.) However, the theater's neoclassical facade survived the blaze and is the subject of sightseeing interest today.

Despite the tragic loss of La Fenice, cultural events have continued in a temporary theater built as a short-term substitute. Designed in the form of a big circus-style tent, within walking distance of Piazzale Roma, is the Teatro Temporaneo de La Fenice (aka PalaFenice), Isola Tronchetto (tel. 041-786511). For a list of other cultural performances in Venice, contact either the tourist office or City Hall, the Municipio Comunale di Venezia, at tel. 041-2748200.

The Teatro Goldoni, Calle Goldoni, near Campo San Luca, San Marco 4650B (tel. 041-2402011), honors Carlo Goldoni (1707-93), the most prolific and one of the best of the Italian playwrights. The theater presents a changing repertoire of productions, often plays in Italian but musical presentations as well. The box office is open Monday to Saturday 10am to 1pm and 4:30 to 7pm, and tickets cost 14€ to 25€.